In Jan 2007 we visited Venezuela with the goal of seeing Salto Angel but while we were there why not see a bit of Caracas, Merida, the plains of Los Llanos, Lake Maracaibo, Canaima, the Orinoco and Los Roques too?
Los Llanos is a spectacular destination for migratory birds. The ranch where we were staying threw a party for the llaneros on new years eve. The surprisingly competent music was provided by the stout staff and I have to say that I have never before or since heard maracas do the things those musicians could do with them. Licentious is the word I’m looking for. I have no idea what the songs were about but the performances sounded more-or-less like cowgirl themed sapphic porn. It was around midnight that I finally realized that we had somehow found a den of all lesbian ranch hands on the plains of Venezuela.
The journey to Angel Falls was a fraught adventure involving a cessna with no back seats or functioning door latch, a large pile of watermelons and many boxes of outboard propellers. We were just an afterthought - extra cargo. We somehow made it to Canaima alive, whereupon the cargo was unceremoniously transferred to a large canoe. To the “guides” we were clearly just a more annoying variety of melon.
The boat featured a powerful outboard for the perfectly safe multi day trek up a very shallow, very rocky river to the base of the falls. It quickly dawned on us that the boxes of propellers were as vital to our survival as the melons. In fact busted propellers were strewn on the shore at every outpost we passed.
Highlights of the river journey involved sleeping in filth hammocks in large open barocks wrapped in even filthier blankets. Many, many cold arepas. Gorgeous scenery along the river with views of the majestic tepui poking out of the clouds, and the most surly boat operator that one could hope for. He was very good at changing propellers though, and did occasionally give us a bit of melon.
We were lucky and actually saw the falls - most don’t because of the clouds - before we were rushed back into the boat for the reverse journey down the river before it ran completely dry.